South Africans Abroad
A show for expat South Africans and anyone interested in the experiences of those who have made the move overseas. Each episode, we'll hear from South Africans who have left the country to pursue new opportunities, be with loved ones, or simply follow their dreams. We'll explore the challenges and triumphs of life as an expat, and the unique perspective that comes with being a South African abroad. Whether you're an expat yourself or just curious about the expat experience, join us as we delve into the motivations, struggles, and joys of being a South African living overseas.
if you love the Podcast, Buy me a coffee: https://buymeacoffee.com/saabroad
South Africans Abroad
Love, Migration, and Moose Tales with Candice Vialpando in Alaska
Ever wondered what it's like to swap the sunny streets of Johannesburg for the icy expanses of Alaska? Join us as we chat with Candice Vialpando, a vivacious South African expat, who shares her fascinating journey from Benoni to Anchorage. Listen as Candice recounts her transcontinental love story, beginning with meeting her American husband in South Africa and navigating the complexities of a long-distance relationship, which ultimately led her to a new life in the United States. After nearly a decade in Nevada, she and her family sought a more sustainable lifestyle, finding their paradise amidst Alaska's stunning landscapes.
Candice offers an intriguing glimpse into adapting to Alaskan life, including the culture shock and unique wildlife encounters that come with the territory. Experience the thrill and challenges of living alongside nature as Candice tells stories of moose munching on Halloween pumpkins and the necessity of bear spray and special trash locks. She also dives deep into the immigration process, from securing a K-3 visa for marriage to the ongoing pursuit of citizenship, highlighting the patience and resilience required for such a monumental move.
Discover the transformative journey Candice has undergone, including her return to school for a master's degree and the sense of community she found in Anchorage. She candidly shares the emotional ups and downs of being far from family and the enriching cultural exchanges between South Africa and Alaska. Candice reflects on the freedom and safety of her new home, the economic challenges, and the benefits of the Permanent Fund Dividend (PFD). Her experiences in early childhood education and her husband’s role with the Bureau of Land Management provide a comprehensive look at life in the Last Frontier, offering invaluable insights for anyone considering a similar adventure.
join our Facebook page South Africans Abroad the podcast https://www.facebook.com/groups/5237575539627532/
Welcome back to South Africans Abroad a show for expat South Africans and anyone interested in the experiences of those who have made the move overseas. Each episode we'll hear from South Africans who have left the country to pursue new opportunities, be with loved ones or simply follow their dreams. We'll explore the challenges and triumphs of life as an expat and the unique perspective that comes with being a South African abroad. I'm your host, warren Burley, an expat South African who, like many, followed the dream of working overseas. Whether you're an expat yourself or just curious about the expat experience, join us as we delve into the motivations, struggles and joys of being a South African living overseas.
Speaker 1:Today we've got an incredible guest joining us, candice Vile-Pando. Originally from Benoni in Johannesburg, south Africa, candice has made the bold move to Anchorage Alaska. She's here to share her unique journey with us from the bustling streets of Benoni to the rugged wilderness of Alaska. We'll dive into her experiences, the challenges she faced and the amazing adventures she's had along the way, a true embodiment of adventurous spirit and resilience of South Africans abroad. Candice, how are you doing?
Speaker 2:Hey Warren, doing good. Thank you so much for having me. I'm genuinely thrilled to be part of your podcast. I feel like it serves as a wonderful platform for South African expats like me to hear our stories and hopefully inspire others back home who are considering embarking on a similar journey.
Speaker 1:Brilliant. Yeah, that's kind of the idea of the podcast. We like to get everybody involved. You know, also, people have a lot of questions about how to get overseas and if they should even make the move overseas. And speaking of which, why the hell and how the hell did you get to Anchorage Alaska?
Speaker 2:Yeah, yes, the hell. Did you get to Anchorage Alaska? Yeah, yes. So in 2012, I found myself at a crossroads after completing my bachelor's degree in South Africa and job opportunities were scarce, so it was prompting me to look abroad for new prospects, and originally I was aiming for London. But fate intervened and I make my now husband, who's an American, during one of his visits in South Africa, and we had a long distance relationship for a while and spent time between both countries before deciding to get married. And yeah, then you know like, while my heart will always belong to South Africa, I've cherished the opportunity to experience life beyond its borders, and settling in America felt like a natural step for us, and over the past 11 years, we've been blessed with four children and have found our forever home in Alaska. All right, we've been blessed with four children and have found our forever home in Alaska.
Speaker 1:All right. So that begs the question out of all the states, california being one of them, why Alaska? What made you choose Alaska?
Speaker 2:So we spent nine years in Nevada and we were in Reno, nevada, and we were just looking for something that was not the hustle and bustle of the city. We wanted more of a sustainable lifestyle. We wanted access to the outdoors. We were just looking for something different, and living in Alaska has been, honestly, nothing short of magical. The community here is incredibly welcoming. The connection to nature is just unparalleled. We encounter moose in our front yard. We have the northern lights we can see them from our porch Every day just offers a reminder of the beauty and serenity that this place holds.
Speaker 1:Now, when people think of Alaska, they think of like remote wilderness. I mean, we've seen those reality shows which probably aren't very accurate about you know, living in Alaska. You have to cut your own wood to build your own house, and things like that. How true is all that and things like that?
Speaker 2:How true is all that? Well, I think there are very remote places that are like that. There are little villages that have five people in the whole village that stay there through the winter, and there are places that are like that. Winters can be challenging with limited daylight, but I mean, it's also a time for reflection and appreciating the slower pace of life. But you know, summers are just a burst of energy, with nearly endless daylights. Our kids play outside until late into the evening, we hunt, we fish, we go mushroom picking, berry picking, we get our water from glaciers. We do spend a large amount of summer and autumn cutting wood for fire so that we have, like we have a wood burning stove is what they call it in America which is just a wood fire inside your house. So we have that through one set. But we also have heating electrical heating in our houses.
Speaker 2:But really, if you want more of a sustainable lifestyle, alaska is the place to be. We do have access to grocery stores and medication and doctors, and we have a Target, we have a Walmart, we have a Costco, which is kind of a macro in South Africa, or a pick and pay. You know we have all of those things. They're just quite not. They're not as big or as stocked as maybe some of the other cities, the other larger cities in America, would have. We don't probably have nearly half as much of the fast food choices and stuff like that, but we have access to everything we need to live. There are more remote places in Alaska that don't have these things and they do rely on supplies to be brought in, which can be brought in either by boat or by plane, because some of the places you can't access, like by foot or by road, the only way you can leave or get supplies is by boat and by plane. So yes, those places do exist, yeah, but we live in Anchorage Alaska, so it's more of like the hub.
Speaker 1:So instead of Amazon same day, you got Amazon same month.
Speaker 2:Well, yeah, yeah, we're actually very grateful for Amazon Prime. Yeah, oh my goodness, Because shipping to Alaska. So I used to order both pong and brew hose from one wonderful South African store in South Carolina when we lived in Nevada and shipping wasn't very expensive. And when we moved to Alaska I tried to order something and the shipping was $700. So shipping to Alaska is definitely a big challenge. It's very expensive.
Speaker 1:So everybody here does Amazon my word Okay so also, you spoke about winter. I know winter there is extremely it extremely hectic the conditions there. How do you adapt, should I say, to the extreme weather conditions?
Speaker 2:I know it's quite shocking to think about it. I also wasn't sure how I would do, but you adapt, you adapt to it and they are kitted out for everything. Winter here, you know, the houses are built to keep heat in. You have proper heating inside your home. You are prepared with wood to have wood fires. You have proper snow gear. You have proper boots. This is not like South Africa. I would dress in the winter for style. This is definitely not like that. Like you have your snowsuits, you have your minus 40 degree winter boots. But the roads, the roads are well taken care of. Yeah, I mean, there's proper lighting, it's all kitted out. It's not what you expect, it's just, it's the same, it's you know, just there's the darkness.
Speaker 1:How many hours of a day is it dark? Dark like during the day and stuff during winter.
Speaker 2:Well, we have in December. We have about three hours of light a day, so yeah, but we start picking up lights around February.
Speaker 1:In summer. Your days are long, though correct.
Speaker 2:Yes, we have 24 hour sunlight.
Speaker 1:Sure, so that's, I mean that's quite extreme. I mean like your days are long, though correct. Yes, we have 24-hour sunlights, Sure, so that's, I mean that's quite extreme. I mean like you really got to adapt. I mean you got to adapt your house firstly. I mean you got to have blackout curtains for you know for summer and things like that.
Speaker 2:How does that affect the community life there? Yeah, so in winter you really people just kind of hunker down. It's really just the slower pace of life and everything kind of just slows down, which is kind of nice, because you kind of just raced more, you take a break. I mean, we still work and we still keep the same hours. Kids still go to school, kids still go to school, kids still walk to school, they still take the bus. Everything is still working and running, but in terms of like getting together or like parties and stuff like that, obviously things are more indoors. People do skating and skiing and snowboarding and hockey, so there's all the winter sports for your kids that you get involved in. But it's definitely different to summer. So in summer it's more of like everybody comes out of their houses and you just see people walking everywhere and the trails are busy and everybody's out and about and, yeah, it's busier.
Speaker 1:What was the biggest cultural shock you experienced when you first arrived there?
Speaker 2:Gosh, yeah, in America or just in Alaska.
Speaker 1:In Alaska especially. I mean I know America is a big culture shock on its own, but a place like Alaska is like a country on its own.
Speaker 2:Yeah, it definitely is. I would probably say just the wildlife, just being and roaming so free. People will be late for a meeting and they're like oh, I'm sorry, I'm running late because there's a moose and I can't move my car. So just things like that, or and just being okay with that. You know moose are giants, um. But now we've been here for a while and it's just so natural to us to see them, like walking in our front yard or stopping at the, at the robots, and you know you can't go because there's a moose and her baby is crossing the street, or or there's a bear, like just like a couple of kilometers away from you, walking towards you and you're on a trail. You just, you know you're used to that stuff. So I would probably say the wildlife and probably the winter.
Speaker 2:The first winter here was definitely a learning experience, with the darkness, and not so much the cold, it was definitely just the darkness. You know, coming from South Africa, you like your life, you're used to that vitamin D, so it's just like what do I do? What do I find to do? I didn't grow up with winter sports, so I don't know how to ice skate, I don't know how to ski.
Speaker 2:I don't know how to snowboard, like I never did any of that. So yeah, just I'm lucky in that I have and I married an American who does all of that stuff. But just learning how to do that and learning those things to get yourself out of the house and be active, I think that those were like big adjustments for me Right?
Speaker 1:Yeah, I'm sure, and you talk about all the animals and stuff there. It sounds quite dangerous. Is it a dangerous place?
Speaker 2:Well, it can be, if I guess you don't know what you're doing or if you aren't prepared. Obviously, if you're going into a high bear away area, you want to have bay spray with you. You obviously do not. If you see moose, you obviously just want to turn around and you know not be in that space. You obviously just don't want to be stupid and engage or focus on taking a video or photos and things like that. You obviously just want to be smart and do the right thing. So it can be dangerous. But very, very seldom do we hear of a bear attack or a moose attack or anything like that. Really, for the most part, yeah, we don't really hear about things like that often.
Speaker 1:I thought I had a problem this side with raccoons, but I guess the bear problem and the moose problem probably trumps that right.
Speaker 2:Yeah, I mean there are specific locks that you put on your trash. When you take your trash outside and you know, wait for it to be picked up by the waste company. There are specific locks that you put on your trash can so that the bees can't sit over and eat the food. I mean, obviously you don't want to feed those animals. But like for Halloween our first Halloween here we got our kids pumpkins and we carved pumpkins and we put the pumpkins outside. Well, bad idea, warren. The moose came in and they ate all of the pumpkins. They spent the entire night just having a feast on all of these pumpkins and we watched them from the window. It's like there's nothing you can do, right.
Speaker 1:A sacrifice for the moose. Yeah yeah, and does bear spray work? Because I've heard stories on both sides.
Speaker 2:I know I've heard stories too. I have never used bear spray. We carry it with us but we've never been in a situation where we've had to use base spray. But for the most part my understanding and from what I've heard is that it does work and that it is smart to have it with you. But I know there are various stories and yeah, I'll tell you what.
Speaker 1:I'd have a whole belt full of bear spray. Different, you know different sizes. Yeah, let's just change gears a little bit here. Let's talk about your visa process. How did you know? Firstly, what visa have you got and how did you go about getting that?
Speaker 2:Yeah, so obviously I married an American. How did you go about getting that? Yeah, so obviously I married an American. So I went through the K-3 visa process, which is a fiance visa. So I came into the country and got married and I got conditional residency for two years and then I got permanent residency and I've had permanent residency for quite a while. For the last nine years I am eligible for citizenship and it's something that I'm working on, and did you have any challenges getting the visa and did you have any challenges getting the visa?
Speaker 2:It was a long process but no, I didn't have any challenges getting my visa. I think the challenge with immigration is just how long it takes and how expensive it can be. I did not hire an attorney to help me, we did everything ourselves. But it's just, it takes a really long time. For the first two years that I had conditional residency, I couldn't work, I couldn't leave the country, I couldn't get a driver's license because I didn't have a social security number, so I couldn't do anything. And that was very challenging. And you know that was difficult, to just kind of be in this limbo where you suck, you can't do anything, you can't work, you can't. You know it's. Yeah, that was tough. But once I got over that and I had permanent residency, I went back to school and I got a master's degree and things just started changing from there.
Speaker 1:So, yeah, I'm lucky to have had a lot of stories, both good and bad, about being welcomed into the country and making friends and things like that. How's that experience been for?
Speaker 2:you thing. So, um, but when I went back to school, I went back to university and got my master's degree. I made some really good friends, um, doing that and um, I have made really good friends through my children, um, you know, doing play dates and meeting other parents. Um, and here in Alaska too, I have made a really good friend who's my neighbor, who just lives right next door to me, and yeah, it's just the community here in Alaska is wonderful and welcoming and they kind of just take you in and, yeah, you're just part of the family and part of the community. So I have not struggled too much with that. But, you know, the greatest challenge remains the distance from my family. So I have both a fulfilling life yet, but the separation from my loved ones weighs heavily at times. Not having extended family nearby means my children miss out on close relationships that I cherished growing up. And despite these challenges, the decision to move has still been significant. But yeah, it's a worthwhile sacrifice, I guess.
Speaker 1:I guess I know the answer to this one, but what do you miss most about South Africa, Emily?
Speaker 2:the Kruger Park, the weather, our language. You know when somebody is like, how's it going? Oh, lecker or hi, bo or ace.
Speaker 1:I'll tell you what I'd be saying ace a lot if I lived in Alaska. Met ace yo.
Speaker 2:Yeah, so much. I miss so much about home and I talk about home often and the people here in Alaska love to hear about South Africa and I think, as taken as we are as South Africans, with Alaska, like in all of the country and the life here, it's the same for them. They are in all of South Africa and the life there and the country you know, as they are to us. They are the same with lions, right, like lions and elephants and you know, like just speaking to them about like elephant sanctuaries, you can go there and touch an elephant and do all of those things. They're like, oh, you can, what you know. So it's it's really cool just to see, like you know, the difference in the two when they are so different but at the same time, there's so much similarity and kinship between the two places.
Speaker 1:And is there a lot of South Africans in Alaska?
Speaker 2:There's a group of South Africans that I found on Facebook. I found a group of Alaskans I mean sorry, of South Africans that are living in Alaska, and I think there's about 50 people or so part of that group. But a funny story I, my children, are in rugby and there's a big rugby movement in Alaska. Out of all places in the world they love rugby. So my son plays rugby and one day I was at practice and I was just walking by getting my skips in and I heard this group of people and I was like wait, that sounds like Afrikaans.
Speaker 1:Yeah.
Speaker 2:I was like no, that can't be, that can't be Afrikaans, is it? So I just I kept on eavesdropping because I'm a weirdo and I just stopped them and I'm like are you guys from South Africa? You guys are talking Afrikaans. And they were like yes, we're from South Africa and they are two couples that also met at rugby. They never met themselves before, but it was really fun and we're now in communication with them and are friends with them and actually spent Fourth of July with them. So we had a Fourth of July American South African celebration, but it was, yeah, it was wonderful because, yeah, where there's rugby, the South Africans will come.
Speaker 1:Yep, yep, biltong, brian rugby, and we're there. Yes, exactly how has living in Alaska changed your perspective on life compared to living in Johannesburg?
Speaker 2:living in Alaska changed your perspective on life compared to living in Johannesburg. Oh wow, yeah, that's a big question. So in Johannesburg I felt like I was living. My house was a prison. You know you don't leave, leave, you stay in your house. You are constantly looking over your shoulder, you have alarm systems, you have burglar bars on the inside and the outside you have big walls, you have electric things, you don't do things at night and, yeah, I don't have to lock my car and my car can be outside, my children play outside, my children ride their bikes around the neighborhood and it's safe.
Speaker 2:I know all of my neighbors in South Africa. I didn't really, because you know you just go into your house and you kind of just stay to yourself and we sit outside the front yard and you know our neighbors will come and they bring camping kids and we all just sit outside there and chat and have a drink on Friday nights during the summer, and there's no walls, there's no fences. We'll just sit outside there and chat and have a drink on Friday nights during the summer, and there's no walls, there's no fences, there's no fear of any crime. So I would probably say that is the biggest perspective shift, is just freedom and being able to experience that freedom, especially as a woman. I am free to go and take a walk or go walk a trail by myself in in the remote, in remote woods yeah and I know that I'm okay, I'm safe like those thoughts or those fears of rape or being mugged or being robbed or anything.
Speaker 2:None of that crosses my mind because that just doesn't exist.
Speaker 1:Yeah.
Speaker 2:Yeah, and then there's the whole sustainability part of it. You know we hunt, we fish. You know we get our water from glaciers. It's very different.
Speaker 1:It sounds very healthy.
Speaker 2:I mean, this year we're getting into mushroom and berry picking, so that's very exciting. We're definitely living a more sustainable lifestyle.
Speaker 1:In your future plans? Do you ever see yourself returning to South Africa?
Speaker 2:No, I don't. No, I will go back to visit my family that day, but I think that I have been gone for so long. I don't think that I would be able to fit back into the society in South Africa and for many reasons opportunity I don't think that I would be able to match the current job that I have now or my kids to have the education that they have now. You know, I guess you could buy your security, but I don't. I don't want that. I. I want to be free. I want to be able to leave my car unlocked and run into a grocery store.
Speaker 1:Yeah.
Speaker 2:I want that life. I don't think I could go back to being afraid of something happening to me or my kids again. I just yeah.
Speaker 1:And cost of living. You know, cost of living everywhere at the moment is crazy, and especially on my side there in california. What's it like over there?
Speaker 2:alaska is expensive. Um, alaska is expensive to live. Um, as you would expect, you know, it's very remote and, um, we rely on a lot of things to be shipped in. So toilet paper is expensive, milk is expensive, so things are expensive, but I would assume that it's pretty on par with California and places like that that are also expensive. Housing is expensive here, but we do have something that's called the PFD and that is a payment that all Alaskan residents get, including children. They get paid to live here, so that kind of helps offset the struggles that we face with cost of living or supplies.
Speaker 1:So that is a payment that every Alaskan gets and, if you don't mind me, asking how much is that payment?
Speaker 2:So it depends. It changes every year. One year it was $3,000. Another year it was $1,600. So it changes every year.
Speaker 1:Is that per person?
Speaker 2:Yes, per person. Um, so it changes every year. Is that per person? Yes, per person. So if you are a family of four, each person would get three thousand dollars. If that's what the pot, the, the, you know the amount was for that year and you and your husband are working correct yes, yes, we both work.
Speaker 1:What do you do for work?
Speaker 2:So I am a marketing manager for a nonprofit that's called Thraid and we work to advance the quality of early childhood education and child development by empowering parents and educating child care professionals and collaborating with the communities. And my husband works for the federal government. He works for the Bureau of Land Management and is the field manager for the Anchorage Field Office.
Speaker 1:Oh wow. So tell me, what advice would you give to other South Africans considering a move abroad, I mean especially to a place like Alaska. I mean, would you tell them to consider Alaska?
Speaker 2:I mean, would you tell them to consider Alaska? Absolutely yes. If hunting and fishing and mushroom picking and berry picking and drinking water from glaciers and hiking and wilderness, if that is appealing to you, then Alaska is the place to be. Alaska welcomes people. The economy needs people. So absolutely consider Alaska. Don't let winter put you off because you have the northern lights and those are, let's be real, that's what most people have on their bucket list. So I mean, what a trade-off to see that from your bedroom window every night yeah um for a couple of months.
Speaker 2:Um, yeah, absolutely, at least visit you know um. But, yes, come to alaska, experience it. If you come, reach out to me, hit me up.
Speaker 1:Yeah, look after this conversation. I'm definitely putting that on my bucket list. I've always wanted to drink water from a glacier.
Speaker 2:And mushroom picking. It's incredible, yes.
Speaker 1:That's great. The one final question, which, again, I think I know the answer, but is the grass greener on the other side?
Speaker 2:It sounds a lot darker, but yes, yes, I would say so.
Speaker 1:That's when you can see it right.
Speaker 2:Yes, I would say so.
Speaker 1:Candice, it's been absolutely amazing. I've got so many more questions and I'm sure people are going to ask a lot of questions. We definitely got to get back with you and catch up again. It's really been quite an eye-opener because, as I say, when we think of Alaska. We think of nothing like absolutely nothing, and cold and dark and all that.
Speaker 2:But you've kind of sealed it for us and we're definitely going to make a plan to come visit. Yeah, that sounds wonderful. Um, I would love to hear you, warren, and thank you so much for having me. Um, and to anybody who's listening, who wants to leave south africa, even just for a visit, um, do it. Just take the leap, um, and just do Go out there, experience life and learn new cultures. And, yeah, there's no better education than travel.
Speaker 1:Just do it. Brilliant advice. Really appreciate it, thanks so much. Appreciate the time. Thank you Thanks.
Speaker 2:Bye.
Speaker 1:If you're eager to explore more stories of South Africans abroad, be sure to hit that subscribe button so you never miss a moment For exclusive updates, discussions and a chance to connect with fellow listeners. Be sure to join our vibrant community on Facebook. Just search for South Africans Abroad podcast and become part of the conversation there. You'll find additional content, behind the scenes insights and an easy way to access all your favorite episodes. So until next time, check you Tuesday.
